The BEST OUTDOOR WOOD FURNACE!
Discover WHY we can
say that.
Most important!
We build our firebox 50% thicker
than our nearest competitor. Ours is
.380" thick - almost 4/10th of an inch!
That's why they don't rust through,
split, crack and warp!
We don't have ANY fancy electronics
or circuit boards.
ALL of our parts are
off-the-shelf parts,
that are available anywhere.
There's nothing proprietary that you have to buy from us.
Many companies don't have a
forced air fan.
Others have a fan that blows air through
the front door into the side of the fire.
We took it one step further and
have a fan in back,
that blows air up through the grates
and feeds oxygen into the bottom of the fire,
just like a blacksmith's forge!
Our warranty covers parts AND
labor!
May warranties only cover parts or
you have to ship the furnace back to the manufacturer!
Manufacturer/Brand
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Firebox
Thickness - Information taken from their website |
Shaver Outdoor Wood
Furnace
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Thicker than 1
Gauge! .380"
Almost 4/10th of an inch thick! |
Central Boiler
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Their website only says
"heavy gauge" but forums say 1/4" or .250" |
The Homesteader
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7 gauge or approx. .1793"
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Lil'House Outside Wood Heater
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16 gauge .060"
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Mahoning
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(approx 3 gauge)
.250" |
Hydro Fire
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10 gauge .1345"
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Hardy
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Uses both 14
gauge .0747" and
16 gauge (Firebox, Water Tank, Base, Ash Bin, and Doors)
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Heatmor
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10 gauge .1345"
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Aqua Therm
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Models 275 and 345 have a 3/16” firebox 0.1875"
model 145 has a 1/8” .125"
(11 gauge)
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Pro-Fab Industries - Empyre Wood Burning
Furnace
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10 gauge .1345"
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Taylor
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Models
275 and 345 have a 3/16 0.1875"
firebox, and the model 145 has a 1/8 .125"
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Bryan Furnace
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1/4" .250"
and 10 gauge (.1345") combo
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Wood Master
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1/4" .250"
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HydroFire
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10 gauge .1345"
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This page is formatted so that it can be printed in most
printers!
TIP: If you don't want to print in color, when the dialog box comes up, select
PROPERTIES or OPTIONS to go to the next screen where you can select
to print color images in B&W or to print in Gray Scale.
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Your choice of 20 great colors
and over 160,000 color combinations!
.
NOW with a 20
YEAR WARRANTY!
Building Quality Wood Furnaces
for 36 Years
Since 1972
OUR FURNACE BUYERS SAID:
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As nice, courteous, and helpful a
sellers as you will EVER find! Great furnace too!
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would recommend excellent service
thanks guys
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a++++++
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Wood Boiler seems like a great unit. Yet to hook it up. Smooth
Process!
-
honest and very helpful seller
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Why buy a Shaver Outdoor
Furnace? |
SHAVER |
The others |
We make it simple without a lot of expensive
electronics to break |
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NO |
We make it user serviceable. Anyone can maintain
our furnace! |
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NO |
We use an $8 thermostat available at any hardware
store, not a $100 electronic circuit board |
|
NO |
We use a simple mechanical fill valve - not
electronic. Just flip it on for 20 seconds, once a week |
|
NO |
We make our firebox to last! Ours is thicker than
everyone else's! .375 vs .200 inch |
|
NO |
We give accurate BTU ratings using an established scientific formula.
They say what sounds good. |
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NO |
We have 2 flood light motion detector light on the front |
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NO |
We have a fan not a simple damper to fuel the fire
with oxygen. More complete burning |
|
Some |
Our fan is in the back, behind a door, where you
can't get shocked AND it blows the air through the grate into
the bottom of the fire NOT into the side of the fire! Fires burn
from the bottom up, right? |
|
NO |
Customer Replaceable POTABLE Hot water coil. Many others
don't even have one!
Our pump only runs on demand NOT 24 hours a day as with the
others! |
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NO |
We have been building fine energy efficient furnaces for 34 years! |
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NO |
Our grate uses 3/4" Bar Stock! |
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NO |
.
Rated
to Heat up to 4000 sq. ft.
However,
the owner, Billy Shaver, heats his older 5000 sq. ft. home
AND a 500 gallon hot
tub
AND his Hot Water
AND a shop
...with a
25 year-old model!
BURN TIMES
As a test of burn
times, the owner of Shaver Furnace took the thermostat off his
25 year-old furnace, so that the fire would rage at maximum burn
24 hours a day.
Yet he still only has to load
it every 12 hours. Otherwise he goes as long as 24 hours without
loading it.
Don't believe the hype and
misinformation about 42-98 hour burn times. This is only true in
the summer. |
Click
on Picture for a Larger Image
Get the Bugs, Dirt, Wood
and Smoke outside.
Your lungs will love you
and your
Insurance Company
will too!
|
Extra large, waist high loading door.
No more bending over, straining your back
to load wood! Lever action latch for easy closing and safety!
A PROVEN design - since 1972!
We feel we build the safest furnace
(nothing electrical outside). We have the BEST PRICES and a Very
Friendly Staff to help you every step
of the way.
These furnaces now come with a
double flood light on the front for ease of loading the wood.
Not only that, it's a MOTION
LIGHT!
No switches. No forgetting to
turn it off.
If it's dark outside and you go near the furnace, it turns on!
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18" x 18" - The TOUGHEST
door you'll ever find with TWO 1/4" solid steel plates separated
by a 3" air shield. This plate keeps the hot air in and
deflects it off the door. With very little metal (4 bolts) to transfer
heat to the door it does an excellent job of insulating the
door.
Think the door's not big
enough? A 15" round log, 30" long, will weigh
112lb - more than most people can
ever lift! Trust me, the door
is more than big enough for anything
you can lift into the furnace AND the door frame
will
take a pounding as you throw them in!
Very heavy duty hinges! OURS won't fall
off!
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Click
on Picture for a Larger Image
The
grate is made out of 3/4" inch
bar stock. Now THAT's thick! We have NEVER had
one burn through!
Click
on Picture for a Larger Image
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.380"
Thick Steel Firebox - ALMOST 4/10 OF AN INCH.
WILL NOT burn through - EVER!
Compare Firebox thickness
to another popular furnace at only .200"
Ours is almost .400" !
50% thicker!
Only one seam in
tube so it doesn't
weaken the structure, break or warp. It is made of a
solid piece of tubular steel!
Only 3 welds to make the whole
firebox - instead of 12 in a rectangular box!
It will not RUST through in a
lifetime! Will not split and crack like Stainless Steel!
We have furnaces 30 years old and
more, still in use today!
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Actual photo of a fire inside our firebox
only minutes after reloading with wood!
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Firebox size is 36" wide x 27"
high (due to grate in bottom) x 34" deep.
It is totally
surrounded with 170 gallons of water, absorbing the maximum amount
of heat possible!
The chimney is also surrounded
by water, capturing heat that would otherwise be lost!
The ash pan (and hot coals)
are surrounded
with water too!
|
Click on
Picture for a Larger Image
The
pump, fan and thermostat included
have a one year
warranty.
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Comes
STANDARD with TRIPLE
Hookup for
heating a Home AND a shop / garage / apartment AND potable Hot
Water too!
CONSUMER
REPLACEABLE Potable
Water Coil (50
foot 5/8" OD Copper) carries hot water, heated by the water reservoir directly
to your hot water heater. We
show you how! No
separate heat exchanger is needed!! This saves you $200.00
Again,
this is potable (drinkable) water.
Pump
runs on demand - NOT 24 hours a day like others!
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We
use state-of-the-art Solar
Guard insulation all around the water jacket!
Solar Guard is only 1/4" thick but combines a thermal
break, reflective insulation and an insulating layer of R11.6!
It has backing on both sides and is aluminum foil backed on one
side. We then insulate on top of that with R11 vinyl-backed fiberglass in the
walls and ceiling!
TRIPLE
INSULATED (R50) ON TOP - like a passive Solar house. You cannot feel the heat when you touch
the siding!
That
gives you R22.6 in the walls and now R50 in the ceiling!
http://www.silvercote.com/solarguard_reflective_insulation.php
http://www.silvercote.com/PDF/solarguardspec.pdf
|
Click
on Picture for a Larger Image The
ash
pan is 16" wide x 34" long and
is 8" deep. It is
non-removable but is easily cleaned at the front through the door with a small
shovel.
Many
furnaces don't even have an ash pan, so you have to let the fire
die down or shove the burning wood aside to clean them out!
Water surrounds the ash pan as well, extracting all the
heat from
the red hot coals.
The chimney is low on the
firebox and exits about 1 foot from the
bottom, so that the smoke - or more importantly, the heat - is
trapped so that it doesn't quickly escape out the flue. That
would be a big loss of efficiency.
This is also a better idea since you don't have baffles getting a
creosote buildup on them.
This also
creates a 2nd burn chamber, to more completely burn the gases and
wood! When wood starts to burn, it's the gas that burns first!
Another
advantage is that the chimney exits through the water, further
heating it up - for free!
Nothing does better!
|
170
gallon tank! Many
manufacturers only use 75-100 gallon tanks! The size is critical
when heating a larger home.
DON'T BELIEVE it when they say
they can heat 4,000 sq. ft. and have 300,000 BTU. That's
impossible without heating the water to over 300 degrees! We can heat a house with a water temperature of
just 130 degrees (less wasted wood) as opposed to 160-180 degrees in a competitor's with
a smaller tank. Larger tanks also allow faster recovery and
heating plus a reserve.
Water
tank is made from 1/8 thick
metal (11 gauge; the standard in the industry for water tanks) - 2 times thicker than many others using
only 16 gauge.
< There is a blower
that feeds air into the firebox, below the grate, to feed oxygen
to the fire. It is thermostatically controlled to keep the water
at a set temperature that you can adjust. This takes place of an
inefficient
manual draft opening.
|
Click
on Picture for a Larger Image |
Click on
Picture for a Larger Image
Our
furnace is so strong and well-made, that the
chimney alone is strong enough to carry the 1600 lb. weight of the
furnace!
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Exterior is
made of Heavy Duty Siding - 29 gauge structural quality, full-hard
steel. 10 layers of protective coating. It has a Lifetime film integrity Warranty for
walls and roof and a 30-year
warranty against fade and chalk. 10 year edge rust warranty
against acid rain. 20
colors
to best
suit your surroundings! Mix and match the roof, sides and corners. |
Click on Picture for a Larger Image
to see hookup detail.
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Full size, extra
large rear access door. All electrical items are in back, safely
behind a door!
Water
and electrical hookups are safe inside.
The
easiest furnace for the self-installer to put in!
Click on
picture to bottom left to see hookup detail.
Single output shown to left but all come with 2 pump hookup (as
shown below) at NO EXTRA CHARGE plus hot water coil and hookup.
Click on
Picture for a Larger Image
|
Click
on Picture for a Larger Image
Having the blower in the back,
feeding air/oxygen into the bottom of the fire, is a great aid in
getting a fire started. The water temperature recovers much
quicker, and burns the wood up more completely.
|
Ash pan door and air blower inlet
(seen in back)
The air blower determines how hot the fire
burns and therefore how hot the water gets. A thermostat on the
back of the water jacket tells the blower when to turn on and
off, so it doesn't run all the time and waste wood..
This is a LOT more efficient than a damper!
The air blows into the bottom of the fire,
through the grate - like a blacksmith's forge!
That's better than blowing in from the front - into the side of
the fire, as all others do.
You get more complete
burning from a fire where the oxygen is fed through the bottom
as opposed to blowing over the fire from the side, like others
that have that big box on the door!
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INSTALLATION KIT - Typical
For one heat exchanger - 50 ft.
from furnace
You will need one in and one return line
per heat exchanger or hot water heater plus one run for the
water fill.
|
Outside |
3 x 50' = 150' Pex Pipe
500' for $189
|
$150.00 |
|
50' 12/3 wire |
36.00 |
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8 quest fittings |
51.04 |
|
2 flanges |
39.28 |
|
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$276.32 |
|
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Inside |
Sheet metal (Rarely needed, if a heat
exchanger won't fit your plenum) |
31.00 |
|
1/4 HP blower (only if heating a shop
or garage or a space without an existing furnace) |
225.00 |
|
Heat Exchanger (165,000 Btu) |
195.00 |
|
1-line Thermostat |
19.80 |
|
50' 12/2 wire |
24.00 |
|
110 V 20 Amp breaker |
20.00 |
|
4 hrs labor for duct work
(only if needed for heat
exchanger to fit) |
120.00 |
|
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$260 - 635 |
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Prices will vary depending on
supplier and locale |
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Installation
Kit
Items can be purchased
locally or supplied by your local plumber. The BEST PRICES are on eBay though!
I can send you a link to those sellers.
Kits will vary
depending on the number of feet from your house. Other
variables include heating your hot water or adding a 2nd heat
exchanger for a separate building. This will require more pipe
and a separate pump and thermostat in most cases. Pumps are $99
each. Heat exchangers are about the $195 for 165,000 BTU (varies
with size, many are less) and there are many being sold here on eBay!
The average cost for
installation (labor) based on average specs is $437.17
If you do some work yourself, it
would be a lot less. Many places allow you to be your own
contractor. Most people can do at least 90% of the installation
themselves.
This will vary depending on
your local rate and location.
Don't forget a concrete
pad, approx 4" thick.
It will take only ½ yard
for a 4'x10' pad (approx 4" thick), giving you a nice place
to stand and load wood.
|
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Start with a small piece of wood.
:o) Seriously, you
can use these bigger, cheaper pieces or smaller ones - whatever
you can easily handle. The bigger
ones require less cutting and splitting so they cost less -
about $80-90 a cord in most areas.
Shove the logs in on top of each other.
Use the poker for safety to push them in.
(That big
pile of ashes may make the door seem low - but it isn't!)
ANY wood is
cheaper than oil, gas and electricity! One person said that they
have never used their propane heater after propane prices
tripled!
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Thought there wasn't a fire?
Think again!
Within a couple of minutes -
literally -
this fire was roaring!
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BURNING COAL!
Great
News! We can finally say that
our furnace CAN burn coal, for sure.
We
have had a customer (Pete) burning coal in his furnace this
past winter!
He
puts 8-10 shovels in, about to the bottom of the door, heaping
in the middle. This little bit will last him 12-16 hours
he said!
Pete said
that one of the advantages of coal are that it heats up
faster. He can come home late to a dead fire and the water
cooled off (he's a truck driver) and can have heat in 20
minutes!
The
coal also lasts longer than wood. Pete
often mixes wood, putting it on top of the coal and it works
VERY well, he said.
Pete
is heating a 3300 sq. ft house and a 1000 sq ft garage with 12
foot ceilings - so an equivalent of 1500 sq. ft plus
3300 plus his hot water. 4800 sq. ft total.
The
garage stays at 70 degrees even when it's below 0 outside!
To
top it all off, his furnace is 325 feet from his house!! He's
a happy camper...
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We can build YOUR furnace in any of 20 exciting
colors
or any combination thereof!
EXAMPLES:
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CLICK ON PICTURES for a LARGER IMAGE
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Click on picture for a
larger image
We can also build your furnace
so that you can apply regular siding, brick,
faux (cultered) stone or almost anything else.
We can also build them without
siding for a savings of $200,
for those who want to put them in an outbuilding
Questions
about Stainless Steel answered
Do you build with stainless steel?
Hi!
No, we don't build
stainless for several really good reasons.
Our furnaces last longer than stainless with MANY furnaces still
in use after 30 years plus!!
1. Mild steel transfers heat better than stainless does.
2. Stainless is a great sales feature, but little else, since
most companies use cheap stainless, like a car's exhaust system.
There are many grades of stainless out there.
3. Since stainless is so expensive, the fireboxes are made
really thin. Some are no thicker than the metal in a 55 gallon
barrel or the thickness of a trailer fender!! That's why you see
so many split and broken apart.
Our firebox is almost .400 inches thick as opposed to .200 in
many furnaces. The Heatmor furnace is only .102" thin. Ours
is almost 1/2 inch!! They never rust through.
We just replaced a Hardy a week or so ago and there are many
leaking Central Boilers and Hardys on eBay for sale, that are
leaking.
4. Stainless is more prone to stress cracks, so why use it?
5. Unless the stainless is retreated after welding, you've lost
all of it's properties through the heating of the metal. And
it's being welded to mild steel anyway, so what's the use?
Like I said, it's a great sales feature but our super thick mild
steel furnace heats better, doesn't crack and split - and last
longer!
If stainless was better, we'd surely be using it after 34 years
of experience.
Best regards,
Ben
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.
SAFETY!
The potential for electrical shock is something we have tried to totally eliminate. That is why unlike our competitor's stoves, our stoves do not have electrical control boxes, draft fans, etc., on the outside. We believe these impose too much risk should a problem ever
arise. We also believe that to have anything too complicated on a wood furnace is unnecessary. We have made our furnaces to be simple, and
reliable and we have proven that with 34 years of use.
We do not have complicated self-fill, or water level indicators on our furnaces. They are simply
things to wear out or malfunction requiring costly service and repairs. We install a simple manual valve which you turn on until water runs out the overflow, and
flip back off. SIMPLE! (This takes about 10 seconds.)
These stoves were developed by us, for our own use. We started making them for others slowly and now our stoves are well known locally for their simplicity, and their maintenance-free operation.
Shaver has sold several thousand in their county alone! We are sure that if you purchase one of our stoves you will be completely satisfied with our stove throughout its long service life which you will enjoy.
Hot Water Wood Furnaces are indeed the very best heating choice. We are positive that a few years down the road when others are making costly repairs to the overly complex system they purchased from
one of our competitors, you will be quite comfortable and enjoying your new cost effective Shaver's Hot Water Wood Furnace.
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About us:
Shaver Furnace is a
privately held company and was established in 1972. Shaver
Heating and Air preceded it and dates back to 1950.
Gerald Shaver and his Dad were in the heating and air business for
decades. They began to develop their first prototype
for their own home, in the 60's. Gerald
Shaver knew there had to be a better way than to pay for oil, even
though it was cheap back then. His main concern however, was to get
rid of the smoke and ashes in the house. It was obvious it could cause
serious health problems. Besides the soot all over the place was a
chore to clean.
Having
the wood outside already, made the plan simple. Put the wood stove
outside! Stick something like a heater core from a car in the plenum and
it would radiate heat - and the hot water could be pumped from the
outside. He developed a model for himself and continued to improve on it
over the years. In 1972 he decided to start selling the furnaces and an
industry was born. Shaver furnace was indeed the first. The last
revision was made in 1978 and the furnace remains unchanged, except for
cosmetics, today. Now Gerald's son Billy heads up the business.
We have been in business for 35 years and we are
a family run business.
We have sold THOUSANDS of furnaces across the
country.
We are a brick and mortar
business in Salem Arkansas - and we are here to
stay.
We stand behind the quality of our furnaces 100%. We believe that we can give
you a quality furnace and save you hundreds
if not thousands of dollars
at the same time.
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© Copyright 1995-2008
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